Ask a Hairstylist: How to Avoid “Triangle Hair” with Wavy or Curly Hair

We’ve all been there: you finally grow your waves or curls long, only to find the shape isn’t flattering. Instead of soft, effortless movement, your hair looks flat on top and heavy at the bottom — forming that dreaded triangle shape. It can make the face look wider, add years, and feel like no amount of product or heat styling can save it.

Celebrity hairstylist Bill Angst shares his expert advice on how to reshape wavy and curly hair so it looks chic, flattering, and full of movement.

How to avoid triangle hair

Why “Triangle Hair” Happens

The triangle effect often shows up when hair is:

All one length: Without layering, waves and curls naturally expand outward at the ends.
Flat at the crown: The top collapses while the bottom builds bulk.
Overloaded with product or heat styling: Trying to tame frizz with heavy products can weigh hair down instead of giving it bounce.

The Stylist’s Fix: Layers, Length, and Shape

1. Add Long Layers

Starting layers from the chin down helps remove excess weight at the ends while keeping the volume controlled. This opens up your face and gives your natural waves more flow.

Katharine McPhee wavy hairstyle showing how to avoid triangle hair

💡 Inspiration: Think Katharine McPhee’s soft layers or Anne Hathaway’s mid-length waves — still full, but with airy shape instead of heaviness.

Anne Hathaway hairstyle showing how to avoid triangle hair

2. Grow It a Little Longer

Shoulder-length waves can sometimes “sit” too heavily. Adding length helps stretch the silhouette, making it appear more balanced.

Minka Kelly hairstyle showing how to avoid triangle hair

💡 Inspiration: Minka Kelly’s long, tousled waves are a perfect example — length + styling tools = softer lines, no triangle.

3. Play with Your Part

Don’t underestimate the power of a new part. Flipping your part to the middle or to the opposite side adds height at the crown and redistributes volume.

Nikki Reed hairstyle showing how to avoid triangle hair

💡 Inspiration: Nikki Reed’s center-parted waves — sleek, elegant, and lengthening for the face.

4. Half-Back Styling

Pinning part of your hair back reduces bulk at the sides and elongates your neck, giving a statuesque effect.

Leave a few curls in front (like Natalie Portman).
Or pin everything back for clean sophistication (like Ashley Greene).

Natalie Portman hairstyle showing how to avoid triangle hair

5. Add Crown Height with Styling

Since naturally flat crowns can’t always be fixed with a cut, learn to use styling tricks: teasing gently, pinning sections back, or lifting with a texturizing spray.

Cheryl Cole hairstyle showing how to avoid triangle hair

💡 Inspiration: Hailee Steinfeld’s crown volume — height on top balances fullness below.

6. Try a Side Sweep

Pinning hair to one side is another quick way to reduce triangle width and create softness.

Katharine McPhee hairstyle showing how to avoid triangle hair

💡 Inspiration: Cheryl Cole’s side-swept curls — feminine and slimming.

What About Color?

Bill’s advice: stick with your natural dark brown base. It already enhances your skin tone and makes your eyes pop.

To boost shine and fight dullness or frizz:

Ask your stylist for a clear glaze or glossing treatment.
Use a weekly moisturizing hair mask to reduce frizz and add softness.

If you want to experiment with lighter tones:

Try subtle balayage highlights.
Keep the roots darker for depth.
Concentrate lighter strands at the ends for a sun-kissed effect.

💡 Inspiration: Katharine McPhee’s sunlit balayage — chic and natural.

Final Thoughts

Avoiding triangle hair isn’t about fighting your curls — it’s about shaping them. With the right layers, length, part, and styling tweaks, your waves can look effortless, modern, and flattering every day.

✨ Editor’s Pick: Start with a consultation for face-framing layers and a gloss treatment. Then invest in a weekly hydrating mask and a lightweight curl cream. You’ll tame frizz, reduce bulk, and love the way your curls move again.